How I'm Investing The Money In My Retirement Account

I just started a new job and part of the orientation process involved setting up my retirement plan. Once I determined which retirement account was best for me and how much I wanted to contribute each month, I then had to choose how to invest the money in that account. When it comes to investing money for retirement, here are 3 general rules I follow:

1.     Make sure it’s profitable. Retirement plans don’t just help us save money on taxes and stash cash for a later date. One of the biggest perks of retirement accounts, is the opportunity to invest the money and make a profit. When you contribute towards your 401K, 403b, or IRA, the money is simply sitting in an account. In order to make a profit on that money, you must actually invest that money. Most employer-sponsored retirement plans (401K, 403b, 457) give you the option to choose different “index funds” that invest in stocks, bonds, or a combination of the two. Bonds are a “safe” investment but the returns on your money (aka profits) are quite low and barely keep up with yearly inflation. In order to make your contributions profitable and increase the value of your retirement portfolio, you should invest in some percentage of stocks.   

2.     Make sure it’s diverse. When it comes to investing in stocks, I do not mean buying individual shares of Amazon or Netflix. Buying individual stocks carries enormous risk. Even a big company like Walmart can experience less profitable periods where their revenues don’t meet expectations, decreasing the price of their stock and the value of your investment. As lay persons with jobs, it can be difficult to predict which companies or industries will be the most profitable 5-10 years from now. Even if we stay informed on company news, there is no way we could outsmart the people on Wall Street who have the latest information right at their fingertips (and even those experts get it wrong 50% of the time!) The key to managing this risk, is to invest in many different companies in a variety of industries. Since we don’t have an endless amount of money, the most effective way to do this is to invest in index mutual funds. The total stock market index fund, for example, buys almost all of the public stocks in the country. That way if one industry experiences a downturn, your stock investments in all of the other industries will prevent you from losing too much money. Plus, being this diversified may allow you to make an even larger profit when small startups companies experience unexpected growth or turn into the next Facebook.

3.     Make sure it’s safe. While we want our investments to be profitable, we must also ensure they are not too risky. People who had all of their retirement savings invested in stocks during the crash of 2008 lost a lot more money than those who had invested some of their money in bonds. A general rule of thumb is that your stock-to-bond allocation should be 100 minus your age. If you are 25 years old, you should have 75% of your money in stocks and 25% in bonds. If you are 45, you should 55% in stocks and 45% in bonds. Since people are living longer nowadays, some experts suggest using 110 or 120 minus your age instead. Regardless of which estimator you use, your ideal allocation of stocks to bonds, should be based on your comfort level. Take a look at the investment fund options available through your job or through various companies like Fidelity or Vanguard and pick a stock-to-bond portfolio allocation in which you are most comfortable.

WHAT AM I DOING? As a 28-year-old female who is new resident physician, I’m investing in Vanguard’s Target Retirement 2050 fund. This index mutual fund is a type of lifestyle investment fund that automatically adjusts the percentage of stocks and bonds as I age. Money in this fund is actually invested in 4 other index funds:

-53.5% in the “total stock market index” fund (which purchases stocks from nearly every public company in the US)

-36% in the “total international stock market index” fund (which purchases over 5,000 stocks from over 40 different countries around the world)

-7.5% in the “total bond market index” fund (which purchases a mix of over 8,000 corporate and government bonds offered in the US)  

-3% in the “international bond market index” fund (which purchases thousands of bonds from developed countries and emerging markets around the world)   

As you can see from the breakdown, the allocation starts off with about 90% in stocks and 10% bonds, since I’m young and plan to work in some capacity for another 30 years. However, it periodically decreases the percentage of stocks and increases the percentage of bonds as I age. This advantage of this changing allocation is that I have more risk and thus a bigger chance of higher profits when I’m young (since the majority of this fund is in stocks), but become less risky as I age (since the percentage of bonds will increase overtime). Another advantage of this fund is that it decreases the work on my behalf. Instead of investing in these 4 funds individually, investing in this Target Retirement lifestyle investment fund allows me to purchase this 1 fund, which then automatically has me invested in the 4 other funds.

As I get older and more experienced, I might choose to invest in different index mutual funds or open a Roth IRA to invest in other things like real estate, but as a busy resident who is just getting started with retirement investing, this is my fund of choice. Whether you choose to adopt my game-plan or come up with one of your own, remember the 3 rules to retirement investing: Keep it profitable, keep it diverse, keep it safe.   

Tell me, are you saving money for retirement? If so, how do you plan to invest the money in your retirement account?

Which retirement account is best for you?

Whether you are starting a new job like me or extending the contract at your current place of employment, part of the process may involve signing up for a retirement account. Most people have heard of a 401K, but you may have other options available to you such as a 403b or Roth IRA. Understanding the pros and cons of each account will help you better determine which one is best for you.

What is a 403b? A 403b is a type of employer-sponsored retirement plan offered to people who work at nonprofit organizations. It functions very similarly to a 401K, which is a type of employer-sponsored retirement plan offered to people who work at for-profit organizations.

Pros of a 403b (or 401K)?

1.     You can lower your taxes. As of 2024, you can contribute up to $23,000 a year in this account, pre-tax. That means that you don’t have to pay yearly income taxes on the portion of your paycheck you allocate to retirement. For high-income earners with tax rate near 30%, contributing to this 403b plan can save them over $6,000 a year in taxes.

2.     You may get a “match” from your employer. This is when the company places an equal amount of their money into your account to “match” the contribution you made. If you contribute $6,000, they will “match” your contribution with an additional $6,000, so at the end of the year you will have a total of $12,000 in the account.

3.     You may lower your monthly student loan payment. The income-driven federal student loan repayment plans are based on a percentage of your discretionary income. Your discretionary income is your “taxable” income minus 150% to 225% of the poverty line (the minimum amount of money you need to cover living expenses). When you contribute to employer-sponsored plans, like a 403b or 401K, you lower your taxable income. Lowering your taxable income, lowers your discretionary income, which then lowers your monthly student loan payment. Although interest will still accrue on your loans, lowering your monthly payment is beneficial if you are enrolled in a student loan forgiveness program like public service loan forgiveness.

Cons of a 403b (or 401K)?

1.     You are limited in the type of investments you can make. When you contribute to a 403b (or 401K), you are simply putting money into an account. In order for the money to grow over time, you must actually invest the money in that account. Employer-sponsored plans can be limited in the types of investment options they allow you to make. Most employer-sponsored plans allow you to invest in index mutual funds, which purchase a variety of stocks or bonds in different industries. However, they usually do not allow you to make other types of investments in things like real estate.

2.     You will have to pay taxes on the money you withdraw in retirement. Since you contribute to this account with “pre-tax” dollars, you did not pay taxes on the money before it went into the account. Because you didn’t pay taxes at that time, you will have to pay taxes when you take the money out of the account in retirement. Since the money in these accounts will have been invested, you will ideally have profits/earnings in the account as well. The profit you made will also be taxed.

What is a Roth IRA? A Roth IRA is a type of individual retirement account (IRA). Unlike a 403b or 401K, this account does not go through your employer. You can contribute to a Roth IRA (or a traditional IRA) with any type of earned income you get from your main job or any side job.

Pros of a Roth IRA?

1.     You don’t have to pay taxes on the profit in retirement. You contribute to a Roth IRA account with post-tax dollars. Since you’ve already paid income taxes on the money before you contributed to the account, you will not have to pay taxes on the money (or any profits you made) when you take it out in retirement.

2.     You have more investment options. Unlike employer-sponsored plans, you can make a variety of different investments through a Roth IRA. You can invest in index mutual funds, buy individual stocks, or even invest in real estate.

3.     You can withdraw money from the account easier. Although the goal is to leave money in the account until you retire, if you need to take the money out earlier (to cover the down payment on your home or pay off your student loans), it is easier to do that from a Roth IRA without incurring as many penalties or being charged extra fees.

Cons of a Roth IRA?

1.     You can’t put as much money into the account each year. Unlike a 403b or 401k that allow you to contribute up to $23,000 a year, you can only put $7,000 a year into a Roth IRA. Since the contribution limit is so low, there’s a good chance you’ll max out this account and need to use other types of retirement accounts after you hit the contribution limit.

2.     You won’t save as much money in taxes in the short-term. Since you put money into a Roth IRA with post-tax dollars, you will pay income taxes on this money before you contribute to the account. This raises your tax bill in the short-term and could decrease the amount of cash in your pocket after each paycheck.

Which account am I contributing to?

Both, eventually. For me, saving for retirement is about investing in different accounts during different phases of my life to maximize the benefits of each account. My goal is to have a substantial amount of money in both Roth and non-Roth retirement accounts. Contributing to my employer sponsored account will allow me to save more money for retirement since I can contribute more money in those accounts each year. Contributing to a Roth IRA will allow me to make some real estate investments and also give me the flexibility to take money out of the account, tax-free.

Since I’m a first-year resident physician, I plan to start off putting about 10% of my income into the 403b. Even though I don’t get a “match” through my job, the tax savings and lower student loan payments that come with this account will leave more cash in my pocket each month. Any additional earned income I make from passion projects, blogging, or working extra hospital shifts, I’ll put into a Roth IRA. Once, I finish residency training, I’ll convert some of the money I saved in my 403b to a Roth IRA so I can have a decent chuck of money in both accounts that will collect interest and make me a profit over time.

Tell me, what is your plan for retirement? Which account do you plan to use?

Retirement Account 101: Answers to questions you were afraid to ask

I’m a recently graduated medical student who is about to begin my new job as a resident physician. Along with creating a monthly budget, getting disability insurance, and making a plan for my student loans, I also need to start saving money for retirement. Several of my friends and co-workers wanted me to help them get their finances in order as well. Here are my answers to some of their most common questions about retirement accounts.

1. What are the different types of retirement accounts? Technically speaking, there are two main types of retirement accounts: Employer-sponsored plans and non-employer sponsored plans. Employer-sponsored plans are things like a 401K (offered by for-profit organizations), 403b (offered by non-profits), and a 457 (offered by government institutions). Non-employer sponsored plans are called Individual Retirement Accounts (aka IRAs). Through traditional IRAs or Roth IRAs, you can choose to save earned income for retirement in a way that is not dependent on your employer.

2. What is the difference between a Roth account and a regular retirement account? Many people have the option of contributing to “Roth” accounts like a Roth 403b or a Roth IRA. While Roth accounts may have different contribution rules, the main difference between Roth and non-Roth retirement accounts is the timing on when you pay taxes on the money. Roth accounts are considered “post-tax” because you contribute to them AFTER you’ve already paid taxes. Employer-sponsored accounts are considered “pre-tax” because you contribute to them BEFORE you pay taxes.

For example, with a Roth IRA you pay income taxes on money you make now, then you contribute to the account with “post-tax” dollars. Your money builds and accumulates interest over time. In retirement, you WILL NOT have to pay taxes on the money you withdraw or on any profits you made in the account. Non-roth accounts like a 401K are different. You contribute to these accounts with “pre-tax” dollars and your money builds and accumulates interest over time. In retirement, you WILL have to pay taxes on the money you withdraw and on any profits you made in the account.

3. Should you contribute to a Roth account? It depends. If you feel your salary is going to increase in the future, then consider paying taxes now (while you are in a lower tax bracket) and thus opt for a Roth account. In contrast, if you are already near your peak earnings or may experience a decrease in salary in the coming years (due to working part time or opting for a lower paying job with more lifestyle balance) then you may want to postpone paying taxes now and opt for the non-roth retirement account.

The goal is to pay taxes on the money when you are in the lowest tax bracket. The average person will want to do Roth retirement accounts (like a Roth IRA) when they are young and just starting out in their careers (unless they have other competing expenses that make them want to defer the taxes). As they earn a higher salary, they will want to do non-roth accounts (like their employer sponsored 401K, 403b or 457 plan) to avoid paying so much in taxes on those earnings.

4.How much should you contribute? It depends. You have to figure out how much money you need to retire and contribute enough money each year into retirement accounts to meet that goal. Of note, different types of accounts have different rules about how much money you can contribute each year. As of 2024, the max a single person can contribute to employer-sponsored plans like 401K, 403b, or 457 is $23,000 a year. The max you can contribute to traditional IRAs and Roth IRAs is $7,000 a year. (This amount can increase overtime due to inflation)

5. What happens to the money you put into these accounts? Once you put money into a retirement account, you can choose to invest that money in a way that will earn a profit. Employer-sponsored plans like 401Ks may offer a variety of options with different ways you can safely invest into the stock market, purchase bonds, or do a combination of both to earn a profit on your money. Non-employer sponsored plans like IRAs tend to be more flexible and can be used to invest in things like individual stocks, index mutual funds, commodities (like gold), or real estate. Regardless of the type of plan you choose, most people use the money in these accounts to invest in the stock market by purchasing index mutual funds. These are large, diversified funds that invest in hundreds of different stocks (or bonds) and earn a profit ranging from 7-10% each year.

6. What if you own your own business, do contract work, or earn money from a side gig? Once you set aside money for taxes, you can choose to save and invest that money for retirement. Depending on your income level, you may be able to put that money into a Roth IRA (provided you have not already contributed the yearly limit of $6,000). You may also choose to open a SEP-IRA or a solo 401K through a company like Vanguard, Fidelity, TD Ameritrade, etc. These accounts allow business owners and self-employed individuals to contribute up to 25% of their earned income (or $69,000, whichever is lower) into those accounts each year.   

7. Are there any special caveats I should be aware of? Yes. Oftentimes employer-sponsored plans will “match” your retirement contribution by placing an identical amount of their money into your retirement account, alongside your original contribution, up to a certain percentage of your salary. This is basically “free” money given by your employer.

Of note, people with really high incomes (i.e. physicians) are phased out of a traditional Roth IRA when their income gets to a certain level. They can try to work around this rule (legally) by doing something called a “backdoor Roth IRA” which is explained here.  Some high-income earners may also be able to contribute to a 403b plan in addition to a 457 plan, which allows them to save even more money for retirement.

To summarize, there are many different types of accounts that help you save and invest money for retirement. Determine which employer-sponsored plans you have at your job and compare to them to an IRA. Traditional and Roth IRAs tend to have lower contribution limits but offer more flexibility in the types of investments you can make. Employer-sponsored plans have higher contribution limits and may even offer a “match,” but may be limited in the types of investments you can make.

Tell me, was this helpful? Do you have a better understanding of the different types of retirement accounts?

9 Things I learned when I purchased disability insurance

As an incoming resident physician, I need disability insurance. Although a group policy is offered through my employer, it doesn’t provide enough coverage to adequately cover my monthly expenses or insure my future income. Thus, I purchased an individual long-term disability insurance policy. This is what I discovered:

1.     Disability Insurance is expensive. Quotes from different companies from $100-250 per month.  Apparently, a substantial number of people use disability insurance, so companies raise the price to cover the payouts and ensure they aren’t losing money. Many companies offer “graduated” premiums (which allows clients to pay a reduced monthly premium for a few years in exchange for a higher premium later in life) to make it more affordable. I still opted for a “level premium” with a set rate and it’s $110 a month.

2.     The definition of disability is important. The definition of disability is variable. Some people might consider themselves disabled if they can’t work full-time, while others may only consider themselves disabled if they are unable to work at all. The broader the definition of disability, the harder it is to claim the benefit. Physicians need “own-occupation” disability insurance so that if we are unable to meet the specific demands of our own specialty (i.e. Surgery) we will get compensated, even if we can technically still do the work of another specialty (i.e. Family medicine). As a family medicine resident who plans to specialize in sports medicine, I still opted for an own-occupation definition of disability.   

3.     Gender bias is real. Disability insurance is more expensive for women than it is for men. Insurance companies claim that women are more likely to get disabled and seek payout from disability insurance (due to factors like pregnancy) so they charge us more for it. To avoid paying such high premiums, I purchased a “unisex” policy (which is the same price for men and women). These policies offer similar coverage and tend to be cheaper than gender-based policies for women.

4.     Some companies are better than others. When I contacted a few disability insurance brokers, I realized that one company was vastly cheaper than the others. Mass Mutual was the only company that offered an individual unisex disability insurance policy for female resident physicians. Since unisex policies are cheaper for women than gender-specific policies, the monthly premium for disability insurance from Mass Mutual was vastly cheaper than any other company. On the flip side, Principal offers discounted gender-specific policies for men, so many male residents purchased individual disability insurance policies through that company instead.

5.     Certain “riders” or added protections are essential. When I shopped for disability insurance, I had the option to buy additional protections. As a resident physicians with high-income potential there were 3 main riders I needed: 1) a cost-of-living-adjustment rider (so that my payout will increase with inflation each year), 2) a residual & recovery rider (so that I am compensated for any partial disability until I am back to my full productivity), and 3) a future purchase option (so that I can purchase more disability insurance after residency when my salary increases without having to re-qualify or pay a much higher price). Since I have a substantial amount of student loans, I also purchased a student loan rider so that if I get disabled before I pay off my debt, the disability insurance policy will pay me an extra $1700 for up to 10 years to cover my student loan payments.

6.     There is a limit on how much individual disability insurance we can buy. By law, resident physicians can only purchase an individual disability insurance policy with a max benefit of $5,000 per month. (They don’t want to incentivize us to become disabled by compensating us more than our current salary). We can purchase more disability insurance as attending physicians, but we need to have an individual disability insurance policy as residents so that we are fully covered now and can upgrade our coverage later for a cheaper price.

7.     It’s cheaper if you’re healthy. As I filled out the disability insurance policy application, I answered a TON of personal questions. Insurance companies take a very thorough history to determine our risk of being disabled in the future. I was asked about my own medical history and that of my family. They wanted to know if I had broken any bones, got in any recent car accidents, and whether I had ever smoked cigarettes. I was also asked if I had plans to travel out of the country or engaged in any high-risk behaviors like rock climbing or sky-diving. They wondered if I had ever gotten pregnant and the result of my last “wellness check” from the physician. Because I was young and healthy, my rate remained low.

8.     The price varies by state. I currently live in Florida, but I will begin residency in Atlanta, GA. Apparently, my disability insurance premiums are lower with my Georgia address than they are when I use my Florida address. Insurance companies look at hobbies, accident rates, and other data and determined that we pose a greater or smaller risk to them depending on where we live. California is one of the most expensive places, Georgia is one of the cheapest.

9.     Be wary of group policies through professional organizations. As physicians, we can buy into the group disability insurance policy through the American Medical Association or our specialty-specific organization. These policies seem cheaper and looked enticing. However, after doing some research I saw several drawbacks. First, the premium was not “level,” meaning the cost of policy could increase every few years as I aged. Secondly, they did not offer sufficient “future purchase options” so I couldn’t upgrade my coverage as often as I’d like (i.e. when my salary increased as attending physician). Lastly, buying into these group policies would negate or significantly reduce the payout from any disability insurance coverage I already have from my residency. Group policies usually cancel each other out, individual policies do not.  

Bonus: Many residents are eligible for the guaranteed standard issue policy at their institution. Every doctor needs their own individual long-term disability insurance policy. However, there is a special version of policy available to many pysicians-in-training. It’s called the guaranteed standard issue (GSI) policy and it allows physicians-in-training to get their own individual long-term disabiity insurance policy for a lower rate and with guaranteed approval. They get to skip the medical underwriting portion of the application can instead be guaranteed approval at a lower rate. Unfortunately, many insurance agents don’t tell clients about this policy so be sure to ask about it. These GSI policies are usually available to residents, fellows, and other physicians who just finish training with the past l3 months.

My point? Disability insurance is a must for resident physicians. It’s a bit expensive, especially for females, but we can get around that issue by purchasing a unisex policy and/or opting for a graduated premium. When we buy this insurance, we need a definition of disability specific to our own specialty, with the 3 main riders for complete coverage. Purchasing this policy in residency is cheaper and gives us the protection we need. Be mindful of what address you use on the application since the price varies by state and remember that group policies through professional organizations may be insufficient.

Disability Insurance 101: why you need it, what to include in your policy, and how to purchase it

When we’re first starting our careers, our focus is trying to advance and increase our pay. With our tight budgets, one of the last things on our mind is paying for added insurance. Trust me, I get it. However, as [future] high-income earners, long-term disability insurance is essential. It may not be at the top of our priority list, but it should be.

What is it and who needs it?

Unless you are already financially independent or were lucky enough to have a trust fund in your name, disability insurance is a must. Although we’d like to think we’re invincible, we are not. If some unfortunate event occurred that caused you to become disabled and prevented you from doing your job, you’d still need a way to support yourself. You can’t predict whether you’ll be disabled in the future so you must insure against that risk right now.

You may be tempted to wait to purchase this coverage when you make more money, but I’d caution you against that. The younger, healthier, and earlier in your career you are, the more you need disability insurance. You have your whole life ahead of you with decades of potential high earnings, long-term disability insurance protects you in case this were to change.

Do you still need it if you have a group policy through your employer?

More than likely. Long-term disability insurance may be offered by your employer, but that policy may not offer sufficient coverage. Most employer group policies only pay out 60% of your income if you get disabled, up to a certain maximum per month. The amount they provide may not be enough to cover your monthly expenses, pay back your student loans, and still allow you to save for retirement. As a rule of thumb, the higher your salary, the more likely you are to need an individual long-term disability insurance policy, outside of your employer.

Secondly, group policies may be less likely to pay out if you do become disabled because their definition of disability may be too broad. In other words, it may be harder to meet your job’s definition of disability to even apply to receive the benefit. For example, you may consider yourself disabled because you can’t do your current (high-paying) job as well, but the insurance company might deem you able to do some other (lower-paying) job and refuse to pay out, leaving you to deal with the decrease in pay on your own. You want to protect yourself against that risk by getting your own individual long-term disability insurance policy.

Some people may be able to purchase a group disability insurance policy through certain professional organizations. Although these policies seem enticing, they can have several drawbacks. The premium may not be “level,” meaning the cost of the policy may increase every few years as you age, eventually costing you a substantial amount as you get older. It also may not offer sufficient future-purchase options that allow you to upgrade your coverage as your salary increases.

What to look for in a good policy?

A good individual long-term disability insurance policy has 3 components: enough coverage, a specific definition of disability tailored to your own occupation, and additional riders for added protection. Let me explain.

Along with enough coverage and a specific definition of disability catered to your [high-paying] job, you also need to purchase disability insurance “riders.” Riders are added protections you pay for to ensure that you have all the coverage you need. Examples of riders you should consider purchasing are the: cost-of-living-adjustment (COLA) rider so that your payout will increase with inflation each year, residual and recovery rider so that you are compensated for any partial disability until you are back to your full productivity, and a future purchase option so you can purchase more disability insurance if your salary increases without being denied or charged outlandish rates because of your age or medical conditions.  

How do you purchase it?

As a graduating medical student, I knew I needed disability insurance. I emailed a few vetted brokers/agents that had a track record of working with high-income professionals and entered some basic information on their websites to get quotes. Once I found a policy that had the benefit I wanted with the riders I needed and an own-occupation form of disability, I then chose the cheapest policy.

The insurance agent asked me a bunch of medical questions as he filled out the application on my behalf. He inquired about my hobbies, medical history, and travel plans to discern my “disability risk” as requested on the form from the insurance company. I then reviewed the information in a secure portal and signed the form online. I was approved within 24 hours.

Are there any good deals for doctors?

Yes! Many physicians-in-training qualify for something called the guaranteed standard issue (GSI) policy at their residency or fellowship training program. The GSI policy not only gives you a discount on the price but it also guarantees you will get approved. Most disability insurance comapnies will assess your risk for being disabeled in the future by asking about your personal and family medical history. If you have a chronic condition, have had a series health scare in the past, or have a benign condition like an essential tremor they could deny you coverage. This is not the case with a GSI policy. Everyone who submits and application can get approved. Since these policies don’t require any “medical underwriting” or extensive approval process they are a great option for physicians who are still in training and looking for an individual disability insurance policy at a lower rate.

To summarize: Disability insurance is a must-have for high-income professionals. We can’t predict what may happen in the future so we owe it to ourselves to get insurance that will “protect our income” just in case we were unable to work for some reason. Oftentimes, group policies from our employer are helpful but not sufficient. We need an individual own-occupation disability insurance policy with extra riders until we become financially independent. Be aware that you may be able to get the guaranteed standard issue policy at your training institution which is a great option for many people. If you don’t already have a policy, I encourage you to get one today.

Tell me, was this helpful? What additional information about disability insurance would you still like to know?